During a bird hunt last October, I found that a short-barreled shotgun of the type usually relegated to home defense offered a number of advantages when pursuing ruffed grouse in the thick woods of eastern Maine. The short, 18.5-inch barrel of my Benelli Nova Tactical was easily maneuvered through thickets and brambles and the gun’s fixed, improved cylinder choke meant shot columns spread quickly, increasing the likelihood of a hit on a flying bird at close range.

While the Nova performed admirably in the brushy grouse woods, its versatility is ultimately limited by the fact that its barrel is not threaded to accept choke tubes. A fixed improved cylinder choke is great for close range bird hunting, but is less than ideal for turkey hunting or when trying to achieve tight buckshot patterns beyond 15 yards. Additionally, my experience has been that the addition of a rifled choke tube will noticeably tighten slug groups.

In order to add the versatility I desire to a shotgun I love, I ordered an aftermarket Benelli Nova replacement barrel from Carlson’s Choke Tubes of Atwood, Kansas. While the company distributes a small variety of these Turkish made aftermarket barrels for the Benelli Nova and Supernova (as well as for the Remington 870), the model I acquired comes with a Carlson’s rifled choke tube installed.

Above: The Carlson’s Benelli Nova aftermarket replacement barrel (top) compared to the Benelli Nova factory barrel.

Specs and features

The barrel has a 3.5-inch chamber, sports a chrome-lined bore, is made from grade 4140 steel, and is equipped with a rifle style front sight. The rifled choke tube is made from 304 high stress stainless steel and has a twist rate of 1:35. The barrel’s length without the rifled tube installed is 18.5-inches. With the rifled tube installed, the barrel’s length is a shade under 19.5-inches. The barrel’s threads will accept choke tubes of the Benelli Mobil type.

A rifled choke tube? But why?

Rifled choke tubes are a much maligned piece of equipment, often derided by hunters and shooters who have never used one. While it is true that a few inches of rifling at the end of a barrel will do little or nothing to help stabilize the type of saboted shotgun slug designed for use in a fully rifled bore, my experience has been that a rifled tube will improve accuracy out to 100 yards when slugs with a nose-heavy design (such as Fosters and Brennekes) are used.

Above: A look down the business end of a rifled choke tube.

Sight compatibility concerns

Upon inspecting the new barrel, my biggest concern was that the front sight will not be compatible with ghost ring rear sight currently mounted on the Nova’s receiver. The front sight on the factory barrel protrudes to a height of approximately 1-inch while the sight on the aftermarket barrel is less than ½-inch high. I’m concerned that there won’t be enough adjustment allowed by the rear sight to accommodate the low profile sight on the new barrel. If this is the case, it will give me an excuse to have the gun drilled and tapped for an optic mount.

Above: The front sight on the Carlson’s replacement Nova barrel.

I plan on getting the new barrel to the range for a trial this Friday, barring inclement weather or a range closure.

Update 8/12/13: I took the barrel to the range today and unfortunately, my fears about the rear sight not being compatible with the front sight were confirmed. I was unable to adjust the rear sight enough to get any rounds on paper at 50 yards. A meaningful review of the barrel will have to wait until I can have my gun drilled and tapped for an optic, which is something I’ve been meaning to do for a while anyway.

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In a recent post, I wrote that I had recently acquired a Zastava M85 chambered in 7.62x39mm. The rifle, manufactured by Serbia’s Zastava Arms and imported by Century Arms International, is a compact bolt action priced just right for a gun that will fill the role primarily as a plinker and secondarily as deer rifle for close to medium range work.

Earlier this week I got the rifle to the local range for its first live fire trial and while there are some characteristics of the gun that are less than stellar, I’m inclined to think it will ultimately fill its intended niche adequately. Here’s the lowdown on the Zastava M85.

Shooting

I couldn’t, in good conscience, title this section “accuracy” as my currently rusty level of proficiency, excessive coffee consumption, and the absence of a scope precluded me from conducting a meaningful accuracy trial.

I was unable to find scope mounts locally for the Zastava, meaning that the Weaver 3-9x40mm scope I purchased with the rifle sat uselessly in its box during the range trip (mounts are currently on order from an online retailer). This was a problem since I am admittedly a poor shot when using basic iron sights like the type that come stock on the M85. I generally do well with scopes and aperture sights such as peeps and ghost rings, but I’m effectively useless with basic irons beyond 50 yards.

Still, I was eager to fire my new rifle and took to the range with a box of Tula, 124 grain jacked hollowpoints and a box of American Eagle, 124 grain full metal jackets. Ammo availability is still a problem at the time of this article’s posting, but I hope to try a wider variety of loads in the near future.

At 50 yards from a bench rest I shot two nearly identical 5-round groups of approximately 2 to 3- inches. Such groups are admittedly mediocre, but are about as well as I’ll do with any rifle that has iron sights.

I’d rather not write about my 100-yard “groups” and I absolutely refuse to submit photographic evidence of their existence. I will say that most of the rounds I fired at least hit the 8×10-inch targets I was using. More practice and less coffee seem to be the lessons here.

Above: 50yard groups through the Zastava M85. The group on the left was printed by the Tula 124 grain hollow point ammo; the group on the right was made with American Eagle 124 grain full metal jacket ammo.

Fit and function

While it would be unfair to judge the rifle’s accuracy potential based on the above test, I was able to take note of the rifle’s mechanical and ergonomic characteristics. In general, I found the rifle comfortable to hold and shoulder. The walnut, Monte-Carlo stock fit me well.

The trigger, while not as smooth and light as one found on a competition-grade instrument, was more than crisp enough for use in the woods, on the farm, or at the gravel pit.

An interesting and much appreciated feature sported by the M85 is a detachable magazine floor plate. Pressing a button located at the front of the trigger guard allows the magazine floor plate to unhinge, meaning the user can quickly and easily unload at the end of a long day afield.

Above: The M85′s detachable magazine floor plate.

The Zastava M85’s action is, unfortunately, less than smooth. If the bolt is not worked just right when ejecting a round, it tends to bind, stick, and require considerable jostling to return forward. I’m hoping that with repeated polishing and break-in from use, the problem will diminish over time.

It should also be noted that extraction of spent, steel cases required substantially more force than the extraction of brass cases. This is of little concern to me as I prefer to buy brass case ammo that can later be reloaded.

The bottom line

Although the Zastava M85 is by no means a perfectly slick machine, I am not one to expect competition level quality from a $450 rifle. If the M85 ultimately always goes off when I need it to, doesn’t break and proves consistently capable of hitting gallon jug sized targets at 50+ yards, I’ll be happy.
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For the sake of accuracy, I may need to rename my DIY mackerel rig in light of the fact that I’m mostly catching pollock on it. A lot of pollock.

In spite of persistent rain showers yesterday, my wife (who is also my new social media manager) and I made a trip back to the Schoodic Peninsula to do a little fishing and get away from the TV for a while. I also wanted to test the effectiveness of small sandbags as fishing weights (an article on that is planned for the near future).

The harbor pollock were biting almost non-stop during the two hours prior to high tide. Sometimes, we were catching 2 to 3 at a time. Even small fish can offer a decent fight when you reel in three at once. We ended the trip with 13 pollock in the cooler.

A triple!

The day’s catch.

It may seem odd that someone who has been fishing as long as I have gets excited over a catch of small fish. Indeed, every angler dreams of hooking into a tackle-busting record, but in order to truly enjoy fishing, one must learn to appreciate and enjoy small fish.

Small fish are typically abundant, voracious, and bite readily (large fish didn’t get that way by attacking any bait or lure that crossed its path). Additionally, some small fish have a high meat to bone ratio and when caught in sufficient quantity can provide the base for a great meal. Pollock are one of those small fish that are delectable table fare and the icing on the cake is that they are also easy to fillet and cook.

A plate of crispy fried pollock after a day of fishing in the rain.

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One of the most tedious and least glamorous parts of the whole hunting, fishing, and shooting game is gear maintenance. Though it can be a lot of work and will typically be the last thing a hunter or angler will want to do after a long day in the woods or on the water, it is obviously crucial to the longevity of often expensive equipment. Rust, in particular, is the most ruthless enemy of outdoor equipment, attacking quickly and silently, rotting out fishing equipment and wreaking havoc on the appearance, function, and value of firearms.

Recently, I was sent a sample of a new weapon in the battle against rust; a multi-purpose cleaner, lubricant, and rust remover/preventative called Brownpolymer, which is manufactured by Enjen Joes of Fulton, New York.

Always being eager to try out a new product, I devised a brief series of simple tests, and got to work putting Brownpolymer through the wringer.

Uses

Browpolymer is sold as a multi-purpose lubricant/cleaner that will waterproof metal and wood surfaces, remove rust from metal, reduce friction between metal parts, and will prevent copper and lead fouling inside of rifle and shotgun bores while also increasing muzzle velocity. Additional technical information on the product can be found HERE.

Application

To apply Brownpolymer, simply dab a small amount of the product onto a cotton rag and then vigorously buff it onto a metal or wooden surface. According to product literature, Browploymer must be rubbed to a very thin, invisible, layer as allowing it to remain too thick on the surface of an object will result in the collection of dirt and debris. A very small amount of the product covers a surprisingly extensive amount of surface area. Should Brownpolymer need to be removed, turpentine is the recommended solvent.

Product Trials

A characteristic of the product I appreciated immediately upon opening the jar was the lack of noxious fumes. Many products designed for cleaning and treating outdoor equipment are harsh and unpleasant to work with. Brownpolymer, by contrast, had a pleasing, sweet aroma. I worked with it indoors and never once felt overwhelmed or nauseous.

My first use of Brownpolymer was on my well-worn and battle scarred Remington 870 in 20-guage. I received this gun a gift for my 11th birthday and in the 21 years of its operational life, I’ve used it to bag more game than any of my other guns combined. Inevitably, the gun’s stock bears extensive dings and scratches resulting from countless hard hikes through blackberry brambles and cedar swamps. Some surface rust had also formed on sections of the barrel and receiver, the result of a few periods of a shameful lack of cleaning and proper storage.

Vigorously rubbing Brownpolymer into the 870’s stock diminished the appearance of the scratches and appeared to form a protective coating over areas where the finish had worn off. After treatment with Brownpolymer, a small amount of water dribbled onto the gun’s buttstock beaded up and ran off as though the it had just received a fresh coat of polyurethane finish. Brownpolymer also quickly lifted and removed light surface rust that had begun to form on parts of the barrel.

Above: Water running off the stock of a Remington 870 treated with Brownpolymer.

Upon removing the trigger assembly from the gun, I noticed that minor corrosion had begun to form on the critical parts that comprised the assembly. Application of Brownpolymer quickly removed this rust.

Above: The trigger assembly of the author’s Remington 870 before cleaning with Brownpolymer (left) and after cleaning with Brownpolymer (right).

I also ran a swab of Brownpolymer down the bore of my new Zastava M85. I had previously cleaned the bore using the typically harsh and noxious type of solvent found in most gun cleaning kits. Interestingly, Brownpolymer lifted fouling (presumably deposited during test firing at the factory) from the bore that had been left by the other solvent.

My final test of the product involved a use not specified in its accompanying literature. One of my favorite pairs of hiking boots had become a little too broken in. While this condition makes them exceptionally comfortable during long days afield, it also means they no longer shed water, instead absorbing it with sponge-like efficiency. A brief walk through wet grass results in soaked feet.

It occurred to me that rubbing Brownpolymer into the leather portions of the boots might help to revitalize them, allowing me to wear them for another season or two without having perpetually wet feet. After massaging in some Brownpolymer, water beaded and ran off the boots rather than soaking in.

The Bottom Line

Overall, I was impressed with how efficiently Brownpolymer removed rust fouling from my firearms and with how effectively it repels water. Additionally, I appreciated how a little of the product went a very long way. I used Brownpolymer to treat three firearms and waterproof a pair of boots, and I barely put a dent in the 2-ounce jar I had on hand. I am comfortable recommending Brownpolymer as an addition to any gun room or workshop. (50)

The acquisition of a new firearm is not regular occurrence for me and such an event typically only takes place after a rare windfall or the liquidation of unneeded and unused personal property. It follows that on those exceedingly rare occasions where I can work a new gun into the budget, deciding upon which gun to buy is a tedious, drawn-out, and irritating process fraught with excessive hemming, hawing, and internet research.

When disposable income is limited (and realistically not all that disposable) the inclination is to seek a do-it-all gun or at the very least a multi-purpose gun. In my case, I knew I wanted a light weight, quick handling rifle capable of taking deer at close to medium range that would also be a lot of fun to use to punch paper at the range or plink bits of debris at the local gravel pit. It’s a tall order to fill.

Initially, I had my sights set on a Ruger 77/44, but two factors derailed this plan: cost and availability. I knew that after the addition of a decent scope, sales tax, and possible shipping fees, it was likely that the ultimate price tag for the purchase would be $1,000 or more and thus out of my price range. Additionally, most of Ruger’s fine products are currently back ordered to the fullest possible extent, meaning it was unlikely that I would locate a dealer that had one in stock.

Even though a 77/44 was likely out of the question, I still wanted something that would fill the niche of a mostly fun gun that could take medium game at common woods ranges. Ultimately, I spotted a Zastava M85 in 7.62x39mm on the wall of a local gun shop. Even though the rifle was chambered in a comparatively light round (the 7.62x39mm is ballistically similar to, but not quite as powerful as the venerable .30-30 Win.), it still met most of my requirements: short overall length and light weight, chambered in a deer-capable round that won’t generate enough recoil to make hamburger of my shoulder, and a bolt action for ease of cleaning and maintenance. Additionally, the M85 had a price tag of approximately $450, which was well within my range.

Above: The Zastava M85 (top) is approximately the same size and weight as a Savage Mark II in .22 lr. (bottom).

Admittedly, I had (and still have at the time of this post) a handful of reservations about the M85. For instance, the bolt seems to bind and require a fair amount of jostling to close. Also, my research indicated that the rifle’s extractor is a weak point and is prone to breaking when cycling inexpensive steel cased ammo (the exact kind that most people like to use on water jugs and rotting vegetables). That being said, my research also indicated that the action could be smoothed with a little polishing of the bolt. I’m not that concerned about a potentially weak extractor since the rifle will be relegated to hunting and plinking rather than personal defense. If an extractor breaks, I’ll simply curse, grumble, and order a new one.

Above: a 7.62x39mm round (center) compared to a .270 Win. round (left) and a .308 Win. round (right).

I plan to give the Zastava M85 its initial range trial in a few days. Until then, here are the rifle’s specs.

Make: Zastava Arms of Serbia (Currently imported by Century Arms International)

Model: M85

Chamber: 7.62x39mm (reviewed), .223 Rem., and .22 Hornet

Action: Push Feed Bolt Action

Capacity: 5 + 1

Barrel: 20-inch, blued

Sights: Adjustable iron

Receiver: drilled and tapped to accept a scope mount

Stock: Walnut, Monte-Carlo

Overall Length: 39.8 inches

Weight: 6 lbs.

Additional Notes: Zastava M85s were previously imported by the now defunct Charles Daly firearms and then by Remington from 2006 to 2008 as the Model  799. (96)

We initially thought the trip was going to be a bust in as the first two hours of fishing did not yield a single bite. The hour prior to high tide, however, yielded a good deal of action and we landed a total of 11 mackerel and two small pollock. The 4 largest mackerel were in the 12-13-inch range, which is larger than typical.

My wife caught the three largest of the above mackerel simultaneously on a sabiki rig. The combined fight offered by the fish was substantial and she initially thought that she had become snagged on a bed of seaweed.

Mackerel are possibly the ultimate fun fish of the northwestern Atlantic. They can be easily caught from shore on inexpensive gear and a successful outing requires absolutely no skill or finesse on the part of the angler. If mackerel are present and biting, they will indiscriminately attack any bright and shiny object small enough to fit in their mouths. On a good day, these traits can make for hours of non-stop action.

Methods and gear

There are undoubtedly numerous methods for catching mackerel, but I prefer casting from secluded sections of shoreline rather than jigging from piers and floats as such convenient and comfortable structures tend to be a bit crowded.

A medium weight freshwater spinning rod/reel combo loaded with 12 to 14 pound monofilament line is all that is needed for mackerel fishing. A light or ultra light setup will also work in a pinch, but may not have the strength needed to contend with waves, currents, and frequent snags on rocks and seaweed.

For a rig, I prefer a sabiki or similar multi-hook rig attached to a 1 to 2-ounce casting or trolling sinker. The line from the reel attaches to the barrel swivel at the top of the rig and the sinker attaches to the snap swivel at the bottom of the rig. Some anglers employ a mackerel jig in lieu of a plain sinker, but my experience has been that such jigs greatly increase the likelihood of a snag.

Above: A sabiki rig attached to a 2-ounce trolling sinker, ready to catch some fish.

To fish, simply cast and then retrieve the retrieve the rig at a moderate pace. Nothing more complicated is required. If mackerel are around and hungry, they’ll bite.

A note on mackerel as table fare

Mackerel have an unfair reputation as an excessively strong tasting and oily fish. While the meat is darker and stronger than flounder or haddock, it is not nearly as strong as tuna, swordfish, or even salmon.

As with all fish, the key to optimizing flavor is care and preparation. I immediately place any fish I catch into an ice filled cooler. Fish that are left in the summer heat will undoubtedly soften and begin to spoil before the end of the fishing trip. Additionally, I like to clean my catch before leaving the water, making sure to remove the gills, which begin to spoil quickly. Mackerel can be left whole for cooking, but I absolutely hate having fish bones wedge themselves between my teeth, so I put in the extra effort required to produce boneless fillets.

Since mackerel are a naturally flavorful fish, light and simple seasoning is all that is required. Salt, pepper, and garlic or alternatively a light soy sauce or teriyaki-based marinade is a good choice of seasoning. Grilling and broiling are the best cooking methods for mackerel and care should be taken not to overcook and dry out the fillets. The finished product will be good hot or cold when paired with a fresh garden salad. (24)

After moving from landlocked Vermont to the coast of Maine a few years ago, I became enamored with fishing for Atlantic mackerel during the summer months. In late June or early July every year, large schools of these sleek, colorful, fish move from their deep-water winter habitat into harbors and coves where they can be easily caught by an angler with even the most basic fishing gear.

One particularly effective method for catching mackerel is with a rig often referred to as a mackerel tree. A mackerel tree is simply a length of heavy monofilament line off of which shorter lengths of line branch.  At the end of each branch is a hook dressed with a brightly colored or reflective material. When mackerel are present and biting, an angler jigging, trolling, or casting with such a rig can hook multiple fish simultaneously, resulting in exciting fight while also maximizing the amount of delicious meat brought home to the grill or smoker.

Numerous commercial mackerel trees are available for purchase, perhaps the most effective of which are the Sabiki rigs offered by Hayabusa. Effective as these rigs are, they are also relatively expensive at $5 to $6 each. While such a price tag may not seem excessive, snags and subsequent lost gear is inevitable when fishing from Maine’s rocky coastline. An angler can easily lose half a dozen rigs during the course of a season.

Being a person who prefers to spend effort rather than money, I decided to give building my own mackerel rigs a try. Here’s a breakdown of what I did.

Tools and Materials

• Fly tying vice (Cheap models will work)
• Fly tying bobbin
• Scissors
• Brightly colored thread
• Brightly colored hook dressing
• Superglue
• Size 4-6 corrosion resistant hooks
• Size 12 barrel and snap swivels
• 20-25 lb. test monofilament fishing line

The Easy Part: tying the flies

Step 1

After locking a hook into the vice, wind a base of thread onto the hook. Start just behind the eye and wind thread a third of the way to halfway down the shank. Add a few drops of superglue to the thread.

Step 2

Attach the dressing material to the hook by winding thread over the hook and dressing a few times. For dressing, I’ve been using florescent pink and florescent green spawn netting for no other reason than I was able to obtain packages for $1 each at a local salvage and surplus store. Any bright or shiny material (such as florescent yarn) will likely work as mackerel are not a particularly fussy fish. Use whatever is cheap and available.

Step 3

The details of this step will vary depending upon what dressing material is being used. I attached a square of spawn netting to the hook by a corner and then twisted the netting into a cord. I then wound that cord around the hook’s shank in a spiral pattern toward the eye. Approximately 1/8-inch behind the hook’s eye, I secured the material.

Step 4

To create a “wing” I simply bent the excess dressing material back toward the bend of the hook and secured it in place with a few wraps of thread. I then trimmed off excess material.

Step 5

Finish the fly by wrapping enough thread just behind the hook’s eye to firmly secure the material in place. This creates something of a “head”. To ensure the thread does not unravel during fishing, saturate the “head” with superglue. Allow all glue to dry before attempting to remove the fly from the vice.

While there is a slight learning curve to tying even the basic fly needed for a mackerel rig, with a little practice a finished fly can be produced in 5 to 10 minutes.

The Hard Part: Completing the Rig

This is the part of the project that gave me the most trouble. This is likely due to the fact that I never had the patience to learn more than a few basic knots that I use for pretty much everything. Still, I ultimately came up with a system that mostly works.

Step 1

Cut a piece of monofilament approximately 3 feet in length. This will act as the “trunk” of the mackerel tree. Also cut 4 additional pieces of line, each one about 8-inches in length. These shorter lengths of line will become the “branches” of the mackerel tree.

Step 2

Tie the “branch” line across the “trunk” and knot securely in place. A knot must also be made in the “trunk” line or the branch will slide out of position. Repeat this step with the other branches, spacing them 4 to 6 inches apart.

Step 3

Trim off excess line as necessary and affix a fly to each branch. Branches should ultimately be between 2 and 3 inches in length.

Step 4

Securely affix a barrel swivel to the “trunk” 4-6 inches above the first fly. Securely affix a snap swivel to the “trunk” 4-6 inches below the last fly. The rig is now complete.

The overall length of the rig as well as the number of hooks on a rig can be modified to suit individual preference. I have found that rigs that have more than four hook and are longer than 24-inches in length are ungainly when casting and more prone to tangle.

Does it work?

Making a quick and cheap fishing rig is a good way to kill a little time, but unless it actually catches fish, it is little more than a colorful decoration.

To put my rig to the test, I made an evening trip to the Schoodic Peninsula in eastern Maine to fish an incoming evening tide. The fishing was a little on the slow side as the mackerel had not yet arrived en masse in the region.

However, I did hook and land two of the small pollock (often called harbor pollock) that inhabit Maine’s near-shore coast more or less year round. This was encouraging. My experience has been that any rig or lure that will catch Pollock will also catch mackerel. Additionally, a wonderful feeling results when a DIY project results in something other than abject and comedic failure.

A small pollock that fell for a DIY mackerel rig during a recent fishing trip.

As I expected, A few hours into my fishing trip, I allowed my rig to get a little too close to the bottom where the sinker promptly wedged itself into the rocks. I had no choice but to break the line and surrender the homemade rig to the ocean. With less than a dollar in materials and a half hour of time invested into the project, such a loss was a minor defeat at the most.

The fishing was slow, but the scenery was awesome.

As I’ve mentioned in previous articles, in recent years my weapon of choice for all game large and small has been a smooth bore shotgun of one type or another. Admittedly, one of the reasons for this is financial in nature. The economic near-apocalypse of the last few years did not leave me unscathed and the resulting scramble for household austerity forced me to pare down my once extensive firearms collection to the bare bones.

Essentially, I kept only firearms that were incredibly versatile or those to which childhood memories were attached. There is simply no denying that a smooth bore shotgun is possibly the most versatile firearm in existence, capable of all manner of tasks from personal defense to hunting small and large game animals. If you can only keep one gun, it makes sense to keep the shotgun.

An additional part of my newfound affinity for the shotgun is my contrary nature. In America, the rifle is king, especially for big game hunting. Even in locales where centerfire rifles are prohibited for hunting use, most hunters employ a rifled shotgun barrel to milk as much accuracy out of their slug launchers as possible. While such measures are practical, I enjoy going against the grain and love to entertain the fantasy of bagging a deer with a retro smooth bore shotgun at less than 50 yards while other hunters try to snipe them at 200 yards with a scoped rifle. While this fantasy has yet to manifest in reality, I have – after a few years of exploring the capabilities of the smooth bore slug gun – found that such a platform is capable of far more than most hunters assume.

Understand and accept the limitations

In order to fully appreciate a smooth bore slug gun, the operator first has to accept and even embrace the limitations of the platform. A smooth bore firearm is simply never going to demonstrate the same level of accuracy as a rifle and will never excel at distances much past 100 yards with 75 yards and closer being the weapon’s ideal zone. With a 12 gauge shotgun of any sort, MOA groups are pretty much physically impossible due to the size of the projectile itself. Even cloverleaf group will exceed one inch in size.

Additionally, because a typical shotgun slug flies very slowly (usually at 1,600 f/s or slower) and is a very stout, wide, projectile, wind deflection is going to be an issue at ranges beyond 50 yards. I’ve personally witnessed a very gentle, pleasant, cross-wind move my slugs five inches away from the point of aim at 100 yards. The shooter can learn to compensate for a crosswind up to a point, but such a task becomes increasingly difficult with every incremental increase in distance and wind speed.

Finally –due once again to the slug’s poor sectional density and ballistic coefficient – the projectile is going to rapidly decelerate resulting in rapid drop and a significant decrease in kinetic energy.

The bottom line is that if a hunter frequents terrain where he or she cannot get within 100 yards of the quarry, that hunter will be best served with a rifle where legal or a dedicated, rifled slug gun. Just as a pickup truck will never win a race with a Ferrari, a smooth bore slug gun will never be an ultra-long-range game getter.

Advantages

Given its limitations, the obvious question to ask is why a big game hunter would bother with a smooth bore at all. While the reasons are numerous, the most prominent may be the versatility of the platform.

I’ve previously alluded to the fact that I’m not a very good deer hunter. In fact, I may very well be the world’s worst, unluckiest, and probably cursed deer hunter. For whatever reason, I just don’t see too many of the things when I’m after them.

What I do see quite often, are other delicious and abundant game animals such as snowshoe hare and ruffed grouse. When I simply cannot figure out where the deer are (which is pretty much always) I can easily abandon my dreams of big game, load up with some birdshot, and instead try to end the day with some bacon wrapped partridge breast on the grill. A centerfire rifle or rifled barrel shotgun does not allow for such last minute game changing.

Another advantage of the smooth bore gun is the lower cost associated with feeding it in comparison to rifled barrel models. Some of the modern, highly engineered, sabot slug loads now available can cost upwards of $5 per round. Such a price makes adequate practice a costly endeavor. By contrast, inexpensive Foster style slugs such as the Remington Slugger cost $1 a round or less to fire. More premium options such as the slugs offered by Brenekke are considerably more expensive, but are still far more affordable than saboted projectiles.

Ballistically speaking, a basic, Foster or plumbata slug may be ideal for up close and personal big game hunting in thick brush. The reason for this has nothing to do with the fabled brush busting abilities of wide heavy, slow moving chunks of lead. In fact, there exists evidence suggesting that no projectile, large, small, fast or slow is immune to deflection in brush. The real benefit of the shotgun slug at close range is that it’s going to punch a large hole in any animal properly hit and a slug made from a sufficiently hard alloy is going to punch both a large entrance and exit wound. If the quarry doesn’t drop in its tracks due to the massive amount of tissue destruction inflicted by the slug, the large wound should maximize the blood trail, easing somewhat the chore of tracking and finding the animal in places where the woods are exceptionally thick. While there are large bore rifle rounds available that will also poke a gaping hole at close ranges, they simply do not offer the same versatility as a shotgun and are typically a more expensive platform.

Capabilities

Although it is true that a smooth bore shotgun loaded up with slugs will never rival the accuracy of a centerfire rifle or even a dedicated, rifled barrel slug gun, the reputation the smooth bored have for inaccuracy is somewhat undeserved. An adequately sighted –meaning something more substantial than a bead at the end of the barrel – smooth bore shotgun is capable of better accuracy than most would expect. Consider for instance, the targets below.

Both groups were printed by a 12-gauge Benelli Nova Tactical (18.5-inch barrel, improved cylinder choke, and ghost ring sights) from a bench rest position. The left group was made by 1-ounce Brenekke K.O. slugs at a range of approximately 60 yards while the right group was printed at 50 yards by handloads incorporating Gualandi 1-1/8-ounce Dangerous Game slugs. Neither group would win a competition, but both are more than adequate for big game hunting.

Are rifled choke tubes worth the cost?

A hunter who owns a shotgun threaded to accept choke tubes has the option of purchasing a rifled tube which, as the name implies, adds a few inches of rifling to the end of the gun’s barrel. Many skeptics have doubted the assertion that a slug engaging a short rifled section of barrel after already reaching near maximum velocity will be appreciably more accurate and some insist that a rifled tube will in fact be detrimental to accuracy.

Above: A rifled choke tube for the author’s Baikal MP 94.

My experience has been that while a rifled choke tube will improve accuracy for slugs such as Fosters and Plumbatas, which are already balanced to fly true from a smooth bore gun, a rifled tube will likely not stabilize sabot slug loads that are optimized for fully rifled barrels.

After installing a rifled tube in the 12-gauge barrel of my Baikal MP94, three shot slug groups at 50 yards went from two to three inches in size to cloverleaf groups for some loads. At 100 yards, I was even able to print a three shot group using inexpensive Remington Sluggers that was around 3-1/4-inches in size. Once again, such a group is nothing that will win a contest, but it’s certainly nothing to scoff at either.

Above: Slug groups fired through a rifled choke tube. The bottom-most group was the result of 3″ Remington Sluggers fired from 100 yards away.

It is evident that a rifled tube will improve accuracy, but it is debatable as to whether or not the improvement is substantial enough to justify the cost of the tube.

The bottom line

Obviously, a smooth bore slug gun isn’t the be all and end all for big game. If I lived in an area where the terrain was largely open and 100 to 300 yard shots on game were common, the pumpkin thrower would stay in the safe in favor of something much flatter shooting.  However, when the terrain is thick and nasty and the hunting is of the up close and personal variety, a good old fashioned, low-tech smooth bore will find itself right at home. (38)

Above: A pair of small rainbow trout caught from a Vermont lake in 2008.

Typical size

As is the case when targeting most species of fish, a bulk of an angler’s catch will consist of small to medium-sized fish. In lakes and ponds that are regularly stocked, most rainbow trout will be less than two pounds in weight and between 10 and 15 inches in length. Occasional larger specimens will be hooked and iced by anglers who possess an abundance of both skill and luck.

Tackle, lures, and bait

Tackle

Whether fishing with tip-ups or with a rod and reel, light tackle is crucial. Tip-ups should be set to spring at the gentlest of bites, as finicky rainbows will often expel bait immediately upon feeling resistance. Additionally, tipi-ups should be rigged with light 4-6 lb test leaders and small, size 6-10 hooks.

Anglers who intend to jig for rainbows will be well equipped with an ultra-light rod and reel combo spooled with 4-6 lb. test.

Lures

The same small, shiny, jigs and lures that are effective for panfish and brook trout will also be effective on rainbow trout.

Bait

Small baits tend to be most effective for rainbow trout. Small worms or pieces of night crawler are perhaps the best baits for rainbows, but small baitfish and single salmon eggs are often also effective.

Fishing methods

Ultra simplified, ice fishing for rainbow trout boils down to, fish early, fish shallow. While there are exceptions to every rule, rainbow trout are typically most active in the gray light hours before dawn until 9 a.m. at the latest. To further improve the chances of hooking into a rainbow, fish 1 to 3 feet below the ice in 10 feet or less of water.

As table fare

See notes for brook trout and landlocked salmon (12)

Above: The only landlocked salmon (top) the author has caught to date.

Typical size

While landlocked salmon can exceed 20 pounds in weight, most of an angler’s catch will consist of fish weighing in at less than 5 lbs. In places where salmon are regularly stocked by fish and wildlife departments, most of the catch will likely consist of fish in the 1 pound or less range.

Tackle lures and bait

Tackle

Tip-ups are the most commonly used tool for salmon, especially where multiple lines are allowed by law. Tip-ups should be rigged with at least 150 yards of line as hooked salmon run fast and long when hooked and can easily spin all the line off an insufficiently supplied spool before an angler is able to reach his or her tip-up. Additionally, since salmon can be light biters, leaders of monofilament or superline such as Spiderwire or Fireline are essential and hooks no larger than size 6 should be used.

I have heard of some anglers jigging for salmon though this method is far less popular than tip-up fishing, at least here in the Northeast. If an angler is inclined to jig for salmon, a light to medium weight rod and reel combo replete with 6 lb to 8 lb test line would work well. Heavier gear should be used when fishing waters frequented by unusually large salmon.

Lures

The same jigs and spoons used for large perch and brook trout should work well for most salmon. Large, lake trout and pike sized lures may be effective for rare trophy-sized fish but keep in mind that large fish are often caught on small lures.

Bait

Most baitfish species ranging from two to five inches in length will be effective for salmon. Smelt seem to be particularly effective as salmon bait.

Fishing methods

I have found salmon fishing to be somewhat of a crapshoot. From talking to far more masterful anglers than myself, I have learned that during the winter, salmon frequently swim within a few feet of the ice, patrolling at high speeds for schools of baitfish. Pinning them down can therefore be frustrating and a great deal of luck is necessary for a successful trip.

The best salmon fishing method I know of is to set tip-ups in a manner that covers as much of a lake as is reasonably possible. Tip-ups may end up being set hundreds of yards apart. Bait should be dangled from one to four feet below the ice.

As table fare

The meat of landlocked salmon is far milder than that of salmon purchased from the seafood section of a supermarket. Rather than having a deep red color, landlocked salmon meat is usually white with a pinkish hue and has a flavor more akin to typical small to medium-sized trout than sea-run pacific salmon.

Like most salmonids, landlocked salmon is best when minimally seasoned and grilled or kippered.

Related articles

Ice fishing for lake trout

Ice fishing for brook trout

Ice fishing for yellow perch

A beginner’s guide to ice fishing: getting started (16)